A Model’s Unfiltered Thoughts on Agencies

Photo by Annika Forslund

I’ve been quarreling with myself on this topic for months now. I have provided you with plenty of info on modeling agencies in the past. However, I feel there is a missing element. Bias. Today I will impart my bias in regards to the topic of agencies. Today I will open up.

While I have not had a horrendous experience with agencies, like some, it has not been particularly pleasant either. Often, agencies have felt very intimidating, even bully-like.

A model is hardly ever allowed to be herself. She is scrutinized in detail. She is never good enough, always expected to fill in this role of the unattainable. As a society, our beauty standards are warped. They are unrealistic. Yet, young girls are expected to conform. This is what it feels like to be a model. Moldable.

At age 15, I was told I had too much baby fat. My legs have been called doughy. Some people have told me I can’t “make it” due to my size. That I have to conform. I have been pressured and harassed about my skin, urged to see a dermatologist I couldn’t afford, for a problem that was occurring because of my genes, and because I was unhealthy. Being with an agency has always been a stressful experience for me. I was always pressured one way or another, bullied strategically, bossed around, and strung along waiting for my paychecks.

This is my bias. And the experience is not too different from those girls around me.

Girls. We are women, young women. Yet, why do I keep calling all models girls? It is because even I feel diminished as a model sometimes. We are girls. Young. To be manipulated. Some never grow up. Some never learn. Some girls grow up learning from this industry and are left wondering what is wrong.

Agencies not paying their models has become a norm. Clients paying months after a job. Sexual harassment on jobs, and bullying. How can they get away with this?

For one, the industry remains wildly unregulated. On the other hand: we let them. A year ago, I decided I no longer wanted to be taken advantage of by a shady company with only their own interests in mind.

Unfortunately, a model can’t advance her career much without an agency.

To be fair, I have had a lot of exciting moments with my agencies. I have been in Mercedes-Benz fashion week. I have booked huge, lucrative photo shoots. I have been given the chance to book career-changing campaigns. I have been in Anna Wintour’s office building. There are always the plus sides. I often found myself in exciting jobs and opportunities I wouldn’t have gotten without an agency.

Without having been with the agencies I have been with, I wouldn’t be where I am as a model today. My portfolio is strong. My experience is strong. From the platform of being signed with an agency, I have been given the opportunity to expand and grow, not only as a model, but as a woman.

Here’s the thing. We can change this. Together. The fashion industry doesn’t have to be a harsh reality, but a positive environment.

My experiences in the fashion industry have pushed me to create a revolution. I want to promote positive change and health. Poor, low quality living is generally secretly applauded by many industry peers. Young girls loosing too much weight is celebrated! This helps perpetuate and encourage eating disorders among young girls across the globe.

So I need your help. Soon, I will be launching a crowd-funding campaign for We Speak, the agency of the future. I’m creating a healthy branding system for retail and fashion brands to use to encourage healthy living, and healthy women.

If you help fund and promote this mission, you are contributing your piece of a huge undertaking and fashion revolution. The industry has made small movements to a more positive industry, yet the experiences detailed above are still very much alive. Are you ready to roar?

www.facebook.com/wespeakny

Be Fierce!!

Briauna Mariah (:
Founder of We Speak
(917) 274-7324

P.S. We are on the lookout for experienced, healthy models in NYC! Email briaunamariah@gmail.com for submissions (our email system and site is currently undergoing construction!)

Do Modeling Agencies like Natural Photos?

Do Modeling Agencies like Natural Photos?

Someone asked this question, and, though the question yields similar answers that are contained in my model polaroid post, it can be approached in a slightly different manner.

This question can be answered in two parts. Polaroids, and portfolio. If you’re looking to be signed, these are some good things to keep in mind whether you have a portfolio or not.


Polaroids. 

Polaroids are solely for showing off what you look like without all the smoke and mirrors (aka photoshop and makeup). Clients and agents want to know what you look like and how you photograph. My Polaroid post goes into more specific depth. However, one thing that can be added to the conversation is the definition of “natural” in the fashion world these days.

When taking and submitting Polaroids to an agency, keep in mind that there is a such thing as too natural. You want good polaroids. If you’ve ever heard that your submissions don’t need to be professional, that would be wrong. There’s a clause to that statement. They don’t need to be taken by a professional, but they should look clean and somewhat professional. Because bad lighting, blemishes, and bad photos in general will not look good. I definitely went through this phase myself, early on in my modeling career. To the left is an example of a poor Polaroid on my part. It should be obvious but to someone new to the industry, as I was at the time, I thought that all the agencies wanted was to see a picture of me. This is incorrect, they wanted to see me looking fresh, in a quality photo that enhanced my assets. Poor (especially indoor, like my example) lighting and low quality images are definitely a no! Compare the lighting of the two photos in this post (see above). See the difference in quality?

For examples of a good Polaroid, visit the Polaroid post.


Portfolio.
In regards to your portfolio, natural, raw photos in should usually be the main component, unless you have very high quality images that are more styled/editorial/avante garde/etc. Things you would see in a magazine with the photography quality of a tear sheet. If it doesn’t attain that impeccable high quality, you could probably do without.

The photos in your portfolio should showcase your modeling and your look, if they’re not showcasing an advertisement or clothing. Consider them Polaroids 2.0. A little more makeup, a specific clothing style style, and high quality photography are great to have. Your photos should show emotion, mood, and your raw beauty. Naturally.

Now, consider a different definition of natural. Natural movement, and a sense of ease. Agencies look at this as well. Though, if you don’t have this, but you have the right look, agencies could still take you in for polishing.

Having high quality “natural” photos in your repertoire of images will help brand you and attract clients who are interested in your look. I think it’s safe to say that the more natural your professional images look, the cleaner the slate you become, and the easier it is for a client to see you  in their project.


What about conceptual photos?

Lastly, if you need to decide what to do with your edgy, cool pictures, that don’t really have the word “natural” attached to them, don’t fret! Supplement your portfolio with only the best of the best and aim to get really good tear sheets. While natural photos showcase you, tear sheets showcase your experience and look insanely good in your portfolio.

When in doubt, read up on Polaroids or on how to put a portfolio together.

Be Fierce!!

Briauna Mariah (:

Agency Qualities to Look For

When you are seeking representation and meeting with modeling agencies, you should get to know the people at the agency and get a feel for the place. I won’t get into too many specifics on how to become a model, as it has been previously discussed, but I will say that choosing an agency that will best fit your needs, if you do choose not to freelance, is very important. You do not want to get signed, and then get buried in the agency’s “New Faces” department. This could easily happen with any big agency.

You want to look for a very “quality over quantity” vibe. However, even if they are really excited about your look, there are no guarantees of a successful relationship. An agency that pays attention, with an open line of communication, are generally good signs. Continue reading “Agency Qualities to Look For”